Congratulations on the purchase of the Lumenier QAV250 Mini FPV Quadcopter! This mini quadcopter is a ton of fun and building can be a really enjoyable experience too. We hope this manual will assist you with your build. There are many ways to complete your QAV250 and feel free to customize your build if desired. The following instructions are meant as guidelines and may vary in the future with design / component updates. We suggest to use a little blue loctite thread locker on all the screws, especially the motor mounting screws. If you are installing a camera and FPV gear at the same time, please do so during the build, as you won't want to complete the build and have to disassemble it again to install your gear.
The first step in any build is to take inventory of all your parts and lay them out in an organized manner, making the assembly process quick and easy. Once all your parts are inventoried and organized we can begin.
If you have purchased the QAV250 Carbon Fiber Edition, please view these additional instructions as there are a few differences concerning assembly.
To start the build, find the Power Distribution Frame Plate and the two LED Boards. Lay the board with solder pads facing up, and orient the LED boards so that the white LED light is on the front side and the red LED board is on the back. (The white LED boards have a yellow tint to the LED when not powered).
Next, cut wire to length for the LED boards that will connect and solder onto the main Power Distribution Board. (Suggest at least 6cm of wire length) The wire is not included in the kit since small wire such as this is so common. Servo wire or general silicon wire will work fine, the LEDs draw very little current. We suggest using a red / black wire for + and - . Solder each wire to their respective pad, (red to + and +, black to - and -). Apply a little solder to each pad on the boards first, applying only as much heat as needed, never leaving the hot soldering iron on the pad for too long, which may damage the board or the solder pad. Then line up your wire and reheat the solder on the pad / wire and complete the soldered connection.
Many ESCs will work with the QAV250, we suggest using the Lumenier 12 amp ESC with SimonK Firmware. In most cases you will want to shorten the power wires on the ESC so that it will neatly fit and solder onto the PDB. Cut them to around 1cm in length, just long enough to reach each + and - solder pad on the board. Tin each wire and also tin the solder pads before soldering together. With each part being pre-soldered it will make the connection quick and easy when you reapply heat.
Solder each ESC to their pads, and make sure to match up the red wires with the + and the black with the -. The pads are fairly close together, make sure not to use too much solder joining 2 separate pads together. This will short out the entire board and most likely damage your components as well.
Below is an example of a completed Power Distribution Board. This is a good time to also solder on your power connectors, both for the main flight battery, and other components such as FPV gear. Choose where you would like to solder these wires; there are 4 options on the corners, 2 on the sides in the middle, or you can choose to share a solder pad with the LED board connections.
Now we will attach the PDB and LED board to the main frame plate. Start by taking the 4 M3x20 screws and running them through the PDB as shown below.
Flip the frame back over and install the LED boards on either end of the main plate. The fit is meant to be flush, and you may need to sand down the corners of the PCB of each LED board to allow them to sit flush. A little sand paper or a file by hand will do the trick.
The kit include 4 small black self-tapping screws. The G10 material of the Unibody frame plate is very hard and will require some work to tighten down the screws completely. You can bore out the hole slightly to make it easier to screw in, but be careful not to remove too much material or the thread of the screw will have nothing to lock onto. Another method is to manually turn the screw in by hand a little at a time, reversing it back out and in until you can screw it all the way down. Be careful not to damage or strip the screw head during this process. Alternatively you can skip the screws and simply glue in the boards to the G10; a little CA glue can work well.
A total of 6 35mm aluminum spacers will be used.
If you plan to use the included board camera mounting plate, insert it now. The G10 material is a tight fit and may require you to work the piece back and forth to get it to sit flush in the cut outs.
Align the top flight controller cover plate, and fit the board camera mounting plate tabs into the cutouts. If you're having trouble fitting it in, don't push too hard, instead simply start to screw in the M3x6 screw into the 35mm spacer and it will help tighten down the top plate.
Add all 6 m3x6 screws to tighten down the cover plate.
Finally install the landing gear. Four M3x6 and the included 25mm threaded aluminum spacers along with the vinyl black cap will make up the landing gear.
Tighten all 4 down and place on the rubber end caps for the landing gear feet. At this point if you haven't already you can install your motors and other gear. The kit includes 16 extra M3x6 screws to help mount most motors.