Congratulations on the purchase of the Lumenier QAV500 V2 FPV Quadcopter! This versatile aerial vehicle is awesome and building it can be a really enjoyable experience too. We hope this manual will assist you with your build. There are many ways to complete your QAV500 V2 and feel free to customize your build if desired. The following instructions are meant as guidelines and may vary in the future with design / component updates. We suggest to use a little blue loctite thread locker on all the screws, especially the motor mounting screws. If you are installing a camera and FPV gear at the same time, please do so during the build, as you won't want to complete the build and have to disassemble it again to install your gear.
The first step in any build is to take inventory of all your parts and lay them out in an organized manner, making the assembly process quick and easy. Once all your parts are inventoried and organized we can begin. A well lit and clean work area is always helpful when started a new build.
First you will want to start with the carbon fiber "dirty" frame plate and the two carbon fiber side walls. The carbon fiber side walls have protruding tabs which fit directly into the CF frame plate. You'll notice that the side walls are straight to start with, so you'll need to bend them slightly as you install them into the CF frame plate. It is easiest to do this by starting at one end of the side wall and working it into the frame plate one tab at a time until you have all 5 tabs seated in firmly to the plate. It will be a tight fit, but when the you have the side walls bent to the right angle it should snap in with ease.
Set these parts aside and we'll come back to them later in the build. Next you'll want to find the PDB (Power Distribution Board). This double sided PDB has solder pads for for ESCs, voltage regulators, power cables and accessory cables.
The PDB has a 12 volt circuit built in for the LEDs that are on the board as well as extra pads to hook up additional 12v LEDs if desired (for example, to stick LEDs to the new curved side-walls). The additional LED pads are placed in the same location that the carbon fiber sidewalls go into. We are thinking about a possible future accessory where the sidewalls are PCBs with LEDs placed on them. The pads could then be soldered to these new side-wall PCBs. The carbon fiber sidewalls, if pressed down hard enough could short out these pads (as Carbon Fiber is conductive). Therefore, you need to cover these pads with a bit of electrical tape to avoid any possible shorts. Here is a picture of the PDB with yellow tape applied.
Next we will install and solder on the ESC's to the power distribution board. Prep your ESCs by cutting the the power wires to length and tinning the ends of the bare wire. Pre tin the solder pads of the PDB in preparation of the ESC install. Be careful not to overheat the solder pads which can damage the whole PDB. It should only require 1-2 seconds of heat on the pad while adding solder to adequately pre-tin each pad. Holding a hot iron on the solder pads longer than this will increase the risk of damaging the board. During the install be sure to solder the red wire to + and black to -, while ensuring no pads or solder points touch each other.
The QAV500 uses 10mm aluminum standoffs in the "dirty" section and some ESC's will have capacitors that are larger than 10mm high. The PDB and CF plate have cut outs designed specifically for this, so by laying out your ESC in a position where the capacitor can protrude through the frame plate cut out you can fit ESC's with capacitors larger than 10mm.
This QAV500 V2 kit also includes a Pololu 12v step-down voltage regulator which can be directly installed to this power distribution board. This is very useful for providing 12v power to other electronics on your aircraft such as FPV gear and cameras, many of which run on 12v. It is most common for a QAV500 to be powered via a 4s (4 cell 16.8v fully charged) LiPo battery, but this PDB and voltage regulator also supports up to 6s systems.
At this time we will install the Pololu 12v step-down voltage regulator by soldering the included pin headers onto the PDB. The regulator comes with 4 pins for the included SHDN, but only 3 are required for operation. Cut the pin header row down to 3 and install onto the PDB in the desired location. (2 locations are provided, allowing you to add a second voltage regulator if needed such as a 5v step down or a second 12v). Solder in the pin headers to the PDB first, being careful to use just enough solder to make each connection. Be sure no solder touches the adjacent pin which would create a short. Lay the voltage regulator down on the pins which are now installed onto the PDB, and line up the VIN, GND, and VOUT to the corresponding points on the PDB.
At this time you can also solder on your accessory cables such as JST and XT60 cables (main power cable) to the PDB. It may be helpful to label each power cable, especially if you're using multiple cables and voltages. For example, the power cable coming off the pads run through the Voltage Regulator would be labeled 12v, and the cables running off the main board would be 16v (if running a 4s flight battery).
Install the 11 10mm aluminum spacers using M3x5mm button head screws. The spacers should face up when the ESCs are facing you as shown below.
Now that all the soldering and wiring on the PDB is complete we can attach the arms to the board with M3x5mm screws. Keep in mind the PDB will be on top of the "dirty" section of the airframe and the CF plate will be on the bottom, so you will want to make sure you install your arms facing the correct direction. See the images below for an example.
We suggest soldering your motor wires directly to each ESC. Many people use bullet connector for ease of use, but by soldering motor wires directly to the ESC you limit the extra points of failure that bullet connectors can cause. You will need to test the motor direction during this process to ensure you have 2 CW and 2 CCW spinning motors. If you find that 1 motor is spinning in the wrong direction you can simply swap any 2 of the 3 motor wires and this will reverse the direction of the motor.
Mount the motors on the arms with the M3x5mm screws. Most motors will work with these screws. We suggest to run the motor wires neatly along the arm, securing them in place with zip ties. It is important to carefully run the motor wires through the center of the arm slot, ensuring the wires are not being pinched against the arm or plates. If you do pinch a motor wire, you will run the risk of shorting out a motor and possibly more.
Now we are ready to combine the CF Plate and sidewalls you assembled earlier with the Power Distribution Board and arms. Take your time with this step as it is crucial to make sure no wires or electronics are pinched while joining the two plates together. The curved carbon fiber side walls, which are attached to the CF plate, will need to match their tabs with the corresponding slots in the PDB. All of these tabs will not snap into place immediately, but there is a method that we have found to make this easy. You will want to utilized the 10mm spacers which you have already installed on the PDB by screwing in M3x5mm screws through the CF plate starting in the center going out. See the images below for how to get started.
Work your way from the inside out and along the way ensuring each tab of the CF side walls are seated flush into each frame plate. As you continue to work your way to the outside you will find that the last tab may be the most challenging to lock into place. You may use a tool or your finger to push the plate into place to snap in the final slot. Once you have all the screws in, make sure there are no gaps between the curved sidewalls and the frame plates.
Now that the two frame plates have been joined we can prep the "dirty" section for the joining of the "clean" section. To start we will want to install the 4 15.5mm aluminum retainer posts. These posts will keep the "dirty" and "clean" sections of the airframes from completely separating in the event of a crash. Essentially the will limit the travel of the two frame halves, and they will keep the bobbins from being damaged as easily as well. You will notice 4 holes on the CF plate which are large enough for you to place an M3x5mm screw and tool through, enabling you to install and secure each retainer post with screws.
Next we will add the orange silicon bobbins to the top of the PDB. There are 6 bobbins in total that will be installed. The bobbins have 3mm threaded posts on either end allowing you to secure them in place with the provided 3mm split lock washers and 3mm hex nuts. The split lock washer will keep pressure on the nut ensuring it stays secure. While tightening the nuts onto the bobbins, be sure not to over-torque the nuts. It is possible to damage a bobbin by twisting it too hard when installing the nuts. They should be hand tightened to a snug fit.
The "dirty" section is now complete! Lets build the "clean" section now. Find your G10 clean base plate along with 12 35mm aluminum spacers and M3x5mm screws.
Install each spacers into its corresponding place. Also take note that there is a correct top side of the base plate. You will notice a vertical slot cut out in the front of the plate, and this is there to secure a GoPro camera with velcro. Looking at a GoPro camera from the top down the lens is on the left, so this velcro slot is on the right. If you install the plate upside down you will not be able to secure the GoPro camera as designed. See the images below for correct orientation and installation.
At this point you may want to install your flight controller, FPV gear and other electronics before installing the G10 Flight Controller Cover Plate. For the sake of this build manual we will install it now, but you can wait until the end to add the cover if you choose.
If you are planning on using a fixed mounted camera like a GoPro without a gimbal then you will want to mount the Detachable GoPro Camera Plate. You will need the camera plate, 4 M3x8mm screws and 2 hex lock nuts. Install as shown in the images below.
Now we're ready to combine the "dirty" and "clean" sections. Place the "clean" section on top of the bobbins and secure each bobbin in place with the split lock washers and hex nuts. At the same time you can complete the retainer posts by adding the fender washers and locking them in place with M3x5mm screws.
Be sure to secure any loose wires and cables before doing any test flights. Never test or program your multi-rotor with the propellers installed as an aircraft of this size can do some serious damage.
Way to go!
You have completed the build of your QAV500 V2!
Be sure to check out GetFPV.com for all your additional gear and spare parts.